Mother Goose and Gear: 2011

Storage Basket

How-to provided by www.jcarolinecreative.com

storage basket front

Fabric is Peapod and Leaflet from the Modern Flora Collection. Baskets are lined with Herb.
Materials Needed for Large Storage Basket (finished size 12" wide x 16" deep x 10" high). Materials needed for Small Basket (finished size 8" x 8" x 12") are shown in parantheses if different.: 1 yard of exterior fabric (1/2 yard for smaller basket) 1/2 yard of interior lining fabric scrap of fabric for label holder 1 yard heavy stabilizer (1/2 yard for smaller basket) (I had the best luck with Super Heavy Stabilizer B0509, but you could also usePeltex 70 or Timtex. If you are unhappy with the stiffness of your basket after the basic shape is sewn, the instructions include a way to fix it with some additional interfacing.) 12" x 16" piece of closed cell foam¹ for bottom (8" x 12" for smaller basket) 22" of webbing for handles (I used 1 1/4" heavy duty cotton for baskets shown above) 12" of 3/8" Heat 'n Bond Ultrahold (for the label holder). Glue to affix inside bottom to basket (I used Tacky Glue.)
Step 1: Cut fabric and interfacing. Large Basket Exterior Fabric Cut 2 pieces 13" wide x 13" high for front and back Cut 1 piece 17" wide x 37" high for bottom and sides (If fabric is a one-way design e.g. has a definite "up" direction, like Leaflet shown above, cut 2 pieces 17" wide x 19" high.) Interior Fabric Cut 2 pieces 13" wide x 9 1/2" high for front and back Cut 2 pieces 17" wide x 9 1/2" high for sides Cut 1 piece 15" wide x 19" high for bottom. Interfacing Cut 2 pieces 13" wide x 13" high for front and back Cut 1 piece for bottom and sides 17" wide x 37" high. Small Basket Exterior Fabric Cut 2 pieces 9" wide x 10 1/2" high for front and back Cut 1 piece 13" wide x 28" high for bottom and sides (If fabric is a one-way design e.g. has a definite "up" direction, like Leaflet shown above, cut 2 pieces 13" wide x 14 1/2" high.) Interior Fabric Cut 2 pieces 9" wide x 8 1/2" high for front and back Cut 2 pieces 13" wide x 8 1/2" high for sides Cut 1 piece 11" wide x 15" high for bottom. Interfacing Cut 2 pieces 9" wide x 10 1/2" high for front and back Cut 1 piece for bottom and sides 13" wide x 28" high.
Step 2: Print label holder pattern here. Cut out the paper pattern and trace onto the back side of the fabric for your label holder. Cut out the fabric 1/4" larger than the pattern on the inside and outside. On the inside, clip towards all four corners.
Step 3: Using 3/8" Heat 'n Bond Ultrahold, press the tape along all four sides of the label holder. Remove the backing from the Heat 'n Bond. Carefully fold in the center raw edges and press down with your iron. Then fold down the outer edges and press. (If you don't have an adhesive tape, use a glue stick.)
Step 4: Stitch the top edge and the inside edges of your label holder, as close to the edge as possible.
Step 5: Position the label holder on the front piece. Remember that you will be turning down 2 1/2" of the front piece for the facing (2" for the small basket), so if you want it 2" from the top of the basket, place it 4 1/2" below the fabric edge. I used scotch tape to hold it in place while sewing and it seemed to work pretty well (it was too bulky to pin). Stitch the label holder to the front along the outer unstitched edges, as close to the edge as possible.
Step 6: If your exterior fabric has a design that runs one way, sew the two bottom/side pieces together at their bottoms using a 1/2" seam allowance and press open the seam. (Check the direction of the print before you sew.)
Step 7: Take your pieces of interfacing and trim them down about 3/8" on the top and side. Place the exterior fabric pieces right side down on a flat surface and center the interfacing on its corresponding piece of fabric. Pin in place around the sides. Baste (the longest stitch on your machine) the interfacing and fabric together with your sewing machine within the 1/2" seam allowance. Keep the fabric layer against the feed dogs (bottom of your machine) and you'll find the fabric is less likely to gunch up on you. Repeat for the other two exterior pieces.
Step 8: Mark the center of the long edge of the side/bottom piece (18 1/2" is center for the large basket, 14" for the small). Mark the other edge as well. (I mark it with a nip of the scissors within the seam allowance.)
Step 9: Find and mark the center of the bottom edge of the front and back pieces. (6 1/2" is center for the large, 4 1/2" for the small) The bottom edge is only different from the top edge if your fabric is a one way design.
Step 10: Pin the front and back piece to the bottom/side piece, right sides together, matching the center marks you made in the last step. Mark 1/2" from each side edge of the front and back pieces.
Step 11: Stitch between your marks on the front piece, using a 1/2" seam allowance. Repeat for the back piece.
Step 12: Clip the side/bottom piece where the stitching begins and ends. Be careful to clip just up to the seam. Repeat for the other side.
Step 13: Starting where you finished stitching in the last step, pin the side of the front piece to what will become the side piece. Stitch from the bottom up. Repeat for the other three seams.
Step 14: Trim the seam allowance of all four seams to 1/4" or less. (It helps reduce the bulk when you are sewing around the top.)
Step 15: Cut your webbing or other material you are using for the handles to 11" long. Position the handle on the right side of the front piece, matching the raw edges and centering the handle. The outside edges of the webbing should be 4" - 5" apart. Pin in place and stitch. Repeat with the other handle on the back piece.
Step 16: Sew your front lining piece to the two side lining pieces, with right sides together. Do the same with the back lining piece.
Step 17: Turn the lining right side out. Pin the top of the lining to the top of the basket, matching the four side seams. Stitch around the top of the basket. I opened the seam allowance of the lining, but I didn't worry about opening up the seam allowance of the exterior fabric. I think it actually is less bulky to just let the seam turn in the direction you are sewing.
Step 18: Turn the basket right side out. Don't worry, the stiff interfacing will make it difficult, but just beat it into submission. Use your finger or a narrow object (but not too pointy- you don't want to poke a hole) to push out the corners.
Step 19: Turn down the top of the basket to create a 2" facing (1 1/2" on the smaller basket). You can usually do this with your fingers, but press with an iron if it helps. Pin around the top. If your basket isn't perfect (gasp!), adjust the amount of facing you are turning down to make the basket the same height all the way around.
Step 20: If you feel like your basket is a little too flimsy on the sides, now you have a chance to add some bulk. Cut a piece of heavy interfacing to fit the side plus add 1" to the length. (16" wide x 11" tall). Unpin the top of the basket and stick the interfacing up under the lining into the facing. Pin in place. Fold the extra 1" in interfacing length at a right angle, so it sits on the bottom of the basket. If you want to be extra sure it doesn't flop around, glue that edge to the bottom.
Step 21: Top stitch around the top of the basket about 1/4" from the top.
Step 22: Place the bottom lining face down on a flat surface. Center the foam on the fabric piece. Apply glue 1" all around the edge of the foam piece. Fold the fabric onto the glue and clip with clothes pins until dry.
Step 23: Once the bottom piece is dry, apply glue to the entire bottom of the foam piece. Carefully place the bottom, fabric side up, into the basket. It's easy to get glue on the lining, but use a wet rag to wipe any off. Make sure the lining sides are tucked under the foam piece. Put the basket on a flat surface and place something weighty in the bottom of the basket until the bottom dries.
Step 24: Cut a piece of cardstock 3" x 2" inches and insert it into your label holder.
¹ Closed cell foam is a dense, thin foam that doesn't compress much. It is usually black, blue or white. It is not the cushy yellowish foam you find in your seat cushions. Where do you find closed cell foam? The easiest solution if you want just a little is to buy Foamies or another brand of foam sheets at a craft store and glue them together to get a thickness of a 1/4" or so. If you want closed cell foam in bulk, find a marine or auto upholstery business. If you're lucky, maybe they will give you a small piece to play with before you commit to a 10 yard roll! I'm sure you could also find it on the internet, but it is bulky (and thus expensive) to ship. If you can't find any closed cell foam, your next best option is chair cushion foam or cardboard. The disadvantage of chair cushion foam is it has to be thicker (like 1") to provide any rigidity. The disadvantage of cardboard is if it gets crushed or bent, it doesn't recover. It also disintegrates when wet.
copyright 2008 j. caroline designs, l.p. Feel free to use this pattern and instructions for personal or commercial use. Please do not reprint these instructions without permission. You may link to this page from your website without requesting permission.